Natural Form represents the interlude of c.1876–1882 between the two bustle periods of c. 1868–1875 and c.1883–1889. During this interval the bustle mostly collapsed down to a slightly padded posterior and molded more closely to women’s torsos in an idealized imitation of their natural silhouettes—hence the moniker of “Natural Form.” This transitional fashion itself can be divided into two stages. In the first stage of c.1876–1879, the voluminous and highly embellished skirts with ample drapery and sweeping trains were retained from earlier 1870s gowns along with generously cut sleeves. These fairly quickly evolved around 1880 to comparatively more compact silhouettes with narrower, untrained skirts, less generously cut drapery and closer fitting sleeves.

This ensemble dates to that turning point between earlier and later Natural Form fashion, c. 1879. There is still some fullness to the skirt, a separate but modest train, swagged hip drapery and a somewhat relaxed sleeve cut; however, the silhouette is moving towards the more compact form of the early 1880s.

The ensemble would have been worn over a series of undergarments including a chemise, set of drawers, stockings corset, corset cover and probably at least two petticoats—likely all but the corset was made of washable white cotton. Hair was mostly put up and piled on the head at this time, with a waved or curled tail possibly hanging down the back. Hats were small in size but made of rich materials and perched on the top of the head. Gloves were a must when out in public, and day footwear usually comprised close fitting mid-calf button-up boots with small heels.

Carolyn Dowdell, Dress Historian

The jacket bodice, made of blue plaid ^{silk taffeta}silk taffeta Taffeta is a crisp, lightweight, fabric, typically with a lustrous appearance. Its name comes from the Persian word for silk, tāfta. Today, taffeta is most commonly made from polyester. Taffeta has a distinctive rustle called “scroop.” accented with solid green ^{silk faille (ribbed silk)}silk faille (ribbed silk) Silk faille is a closely woven fabric with a fine ribbed texture. It’s similar to taffeta but is thicker and stiffer and can hold its shape on its own. As such, it’s often chosen for more structured and tailored garments. Faille can also be made from rayon and cotton. is closely fitted to the body through the bust, waist and hips with two sets of darts in the front and curved seams down the back. The hip length is extended by pleated swags of the green silk tacked to the bodice lower edge. It is further adorned with a large bow at the bottom centre back. The bodice buttons up at the centre front. Currently, the buttons are a mix of glass and plastic. The latter are certainly later additions but the glass buttons may be original.

The skirt comprises a blue wool foundation layer onto which are applied multiple rows of ruffles alternating between the plaid and solid green silks. The mid portion of this is a pouf of bias-cut plaid silk gathered and stitched to the foundation layer along both upper and lower edges. The upper portion of the foundation layer is covered by an overlay of the plaid silk that extends to the side back of the skirt. At the back is an additional layer of drapery that is partially sewn to the skirt and partially hangs free.

The train is a separate piece made of the solid green silk, lined with cotton twill and edged at the hem with a ruffle of the plaid silk. All combined, the hip drapery of the bodice, the upper overlay pieces of the skirt and its back drapery conceal all of the closures, foundation layer, and join points of the ensemble’s different components.

Carolyn Dowdell, Dress Historian